A Taste of Old Venice by Amy Waters Yarsinske, originally published in the Norfolk Lore section of the Norfolk Community News, September 1995.
Veneziano’s appeared in 1947
The atmosphere of old Venice, the food perhaps the most authentic Italian cuisine in Hampton Roads. The Veneziano Restaurant has been a tradition in Norfolk since 1942. It seems wholly appropriate that Veneziano’s calls Norfolk home – the city has been called the Venice of the New World since the turn-of -the-century.
Owned and operated by Antonio and Angelina Loiercio, the restaurant move to its present location at the corner of 41st and Granby Streets near the end of 1946.
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Veneziano’s has its roots in Italy. Angelina’s parents came to the United States through Ellis Island in the late 1920s. Her father, Orlando, opened a restaurant concession in New York City. To say that the restaurant business is in their blood would not be overstating the facts.
A Family Business
Angelina is quick to explain that the restaurant is a family business in which everyone, young and old, is involved. Antonio, Angelina’s husband, is the chef. Their son, Orlando, often helps with banquets and daughter Angela, lives out-of-town but is a welcome visitor. Antonio and Angelina, married for 34 years, live above the restaurant.
Antonino spent his childhood in Italy around Palmi, often creating beautifully crafted religious scenes called presepios for the local churches. He now has a permanent presepio on display in the restaurant banquet room, a spectacular scene unveiled at Christmas with each year’s additions, “depending on how things go during that year,” Angelina points out, “each addition may take longer because it is a beautifully crafted work of art.”
A Taste of Old Venice, Italy, to New York, to Norfolk
When Angelina’s father finally came to Norfolk in 1942, he opened two New York style Italian restaurants. The first was a 10 stove, four table establishment on Main Street next to Selden Arcade called the Italian Kitchen. The other, the Napoli Restaurant on Colley Avenue, had a little kitchen in the back. When he found the restaurant’s current location, today so reminiscent of Venice in its interior decor he named it the Venice since the surrounding area on the Lafayette River was akin to Venice with tranquil inlets and waterways.
Customers and employees have been loyal over the years. Angelina now sees generations of the same family return to the restaurant on a regular basis.
In 1947, two people could eat a hearty meal at Veneziano for under five dollars. Half a chicken cacciatora, served with two vegetables and bread, was only 95 cents, homemade pies 15 cents. If you hungered for something Italian not on the menu, Angelina’s father would accommodate the request. This is still the case today. “Particular customers have their favorites so we try to add them to the regular menu for a while. Eventually, we change the menu bu will still take the customer’s request,” remarked Angelina.
Walking through the door of Veneziano’s is stepping into Italy in Norfolk. When Angelina’s father ahd the Italian Kitchen on Main Street, he asked the famed Jewish Russian artist Irvin H. Wolshin to paint a series of murals depicting Venice on the restaurant’s walls. Wolshin painted spectacular sets for Fox Studio in Hollywood and he painted wonderful Venetian scenes on large canvas for the Loiercios.
Celebrity Clientele
Veniziano’s is now a hidden Norfolk treasure with a celebrity laden past. Over the years Antonio and Angelina have entertained celebrities from baseball great Joe DiMaggio, actor Tyrone Power, and comedian Morey Amsterdam, to big band leader Harry James and The Monkeys. Stage managers at the Center Theater would call Angelina after shows to throw private parties and serve dinner for their entertainers. Pictures adorn the walls and counters, reminiscent of the days when Veneziano’s drew in Hollywood stars, homegrown celebrities, and hundreds of locals.
The years have been good to Antonino and Angelina. Though her father died at a young age of 54 during renovations to the existing restaurant in 1952, her mother lived until 1981, sill enjoying limited participation in the business. Customers still remember Angelina’s mother sitting at her booth giving instructions, ensuring every details was given proper attention. Today, Veneziano’s has a loyal following of customer who regularly patronize the restaurant.
Both Antonino and Angelina can remember when there were lines down the street, patrons clamoring for a table in Norfolk’s finest Italian eatery. Way back when, The Venice was open until two or three o’clock in the morning. Somehow it matters little to Antonino and Angelina that those days are gone. “it is the pride we have in what we do, the joy we bring our customers that matters, not the crowd out the door,” says Angelina.
Post Script – A Taste of Old Venice Lives On
The Veneziano Italian Restaurant, highlighted in “A Taste of Old Venice” by Amy Waters Yarsinske, closed sadly in 2013. Orlando moved to North Carolina and opened a new establishment there, the Venice Italian Kitchen & Delicatessen, 407 Atlantic Beach Causeway ste 9, Atlantic Beach, NC 28512.
According to a recent review online, Orlando still has it! “Felt like we were back in Italy at a “locals” only restaurant – but we were at Atlantic Beach! Absolutely hot fresh fabulous food – we had heavenly meat lasagna and (best over) garlic rolls and Greek salad. Vast menu and great specials. Friendly service. They said I could pop down to the wine shop next door where they were doing a wine tasting – I did and purchased a glass and brought my selection back. We love this place!”
Go see Orlando and tell him Amy Waters Yarsinske sent you!